Pigeon Feeding Trays
Every pigeon fancier should try to save the food grains from getting contaminated by bird droppings. The bird droppings spread fatal diseases like Paratyphoid and PMV very fast and the entire loft will be wiped out in no time. The feeding tray given below is the best one, one could ever imagine. It prevents birds from defecating on the grains and also from wastage of grains. You can also use this type of feeding tray to quench the thirst of your birds as a waterer.
Pigeon Waterers
I found the below pigeon waterers to be the best. They keep the water clean and prevent contamination of water from the bird droppings. The above is a multipurpose tray, as it can be used both for feeding and drinking purpose. But, I would recommend you to use separate trays for feeding and drinking purposes.
Before you start feeding your birds, it is very important for you to know the different components the food is composed of.
The food, in general, is composed of the following three compoments:-
1) Carbohydrates, which provide energy and excess carbohydrates are converted to fats in the pigeon body.
Examples: Maize,Sorghum(Jowar/white dari),Brown Rice,Finger Millet,Pearl millet, Wheat, Barley etc to name a few.
NOTE: Wheat should not be fed to the pigeons as it is hot and causes scaly itch mite/gangrenous dermatitis disease in chicks. Wheat, if fed, should be given in moderation to the pigeons.
2) Fats- This is also a very good source of energy. It provides thrice the amount of energy provided by the carbohydrates. But, this component should be fed in moderation to the pigeons.
Examples: Safflower seeds, Sunflower seeds, Peanuts, Mustard seeds etc
3) Proteins- This is NOT an energy source at all. It is generally used for muscle growth and for repairing the injured/damaged tissues. This component should be fed to the young birds and breeders and it is a must for proper growth of the chicks and also for repairing the tissues of the breeders that go through the stress of breeding and raising the chicks.
Examples: Bengal gram(chaney ki dal), Lentils(Masoor ki dal), Green gram(Moong ki dal), Black gram(Udat/Maash ki dal), Toowar ki dal, Peanuts etc
Grit mixture:- The breeding pairs in addition to the above three food components, should be given grit mixture. The grit mixture helps the pigeons to digest the feed and also provides many minerals needed for proper growth of the chicks.
Grit mixture consits of Red brick powder, wooden charcoal powder, and iodized salt(in small quantities i.e., only 1 to 2% in total mixture). Salt in more quantities is dangerous for the pigeons.
NOTE: Females need more calcium than males as they lay eggs throughtout their life or as long as they are fertile. The eggs are composed mainly of calcium and phosphorus minerals. The best source of calcium and phosphorus is goat milk, which is also easily digestible. Some people feed crushed tiles to provide calcium and phosphorus to the pigeons.
For supplying calcium, you can also give crushed hen egg shells. Calcium can also be given orally in the form of calcium tablets.
Multivitamins:- Multivitamins are also necessary for the pigeons. These are commercially available under the name Viseral or Vimeral (in India). Lack of multivitmains and minerals in the feed causes splayed legs in the chicks. The multivitamins can be given twice weekly dissolved in water or directly.
The food, in general, is composed of the following three compoments:-
1) Carbohydrates, which provide energy and excess carbohydrates are converted to fats in the pigeon body.
Examples: Maize,Sorghum(Jowar/white dari),Brown Rice,Finger Millet,Pearl millet, Wheat, Barley etc to name a few.
NOTE: Wheat should not be fed to the pigeons as it is hot and causes scaly itch mite/gangrenous dermatitis disease in chicks. Wheat, if fed, should be given in moderation to the pigeons.
2) Fats- This is also a very good source of energy. It provides thrice the amount of energy provided by the carbohydrates. But, this component should be fed in moderation to the pigeons.
Examples: Safflower seeds, Sunflower seeds, Peanuts, Mustard seeds etc
3) Proteins- This is NOT an energy source at all. It is generally used for muscle growth and for repairing the injured/damaged tissues. This component should be fed to the young birds and breeders and it is a must for proper growth of the chicks and also for repairing the tissues of the breeders that go through the stress of breeding and raising the chicks.
Examples: Bengal gram(chaney ki dal), Lentils(Masoor ki dal), Green gram(Moong ki dal), Black gram(Udat/Maash ki dal), Toowar ki dal, Peanuts etc
Grit mixture:- The breeding pairs in addition to the above three food components, should be given grit mixture. The grit mixture helps the pigeons to digest the feed and also provides many minerals needed for proper growth of the chicks.
Grit mixture consits of Red brick powder, wooden charcoal powder, and iodized salt(in small quantities i.e., only 1 to 2% in total mixture). Salt in more quantities is dangerous for the pigeons.
NOTE: Females need more calcium than males as they lay eggs throughtout their life or as long as they are fertile. The eggs are composed mainly of calcium and phosphorus minerals. The best source of calcium and phosphorus is goat milk, which is also easily digestible. Some people feed crushed tiles to provide calcium and phosphorus to the pigeons.
For supplying calcium, you can also give crushed hen egg shells. Calcium can also be given orally in the form of calcium tablets.
Multivitamins:- Multivitamins are also necessary for the pigeons. These are commercially available under the name Viseral or Vimeral (in India). Lack of multivitmains and minerals in the feed causes splayed legs in the chicks. The multivitamins can be given twice weekly dissolved in water or directly.
To groom the pigeons, the first thing you need to do is kill feather mites and lice . This can be done by applying Notix powder (Carbaryl Dust 5%) on the entire body except eyes. Within 15 minutes, all the ectoparasites get killed. Please see the picture below:
After two days, allow the pigeons to bathe in water mixed with citric acid. Citric acid kills e.coli,salmonella and other bacteria which are generally found in the pigeon intestines. It creates acidic environment in the pigeons' gut, due to which the bacteria cannot survive.
Citric Acid does not exist in liquid form as the name suggests. It is white and crystalline and is used generally in pickles and cool drinks. It is called "Neembu sath" in urdu/hindi. Citric acid is inexpensive(cheap) and is easily available in provision stores.
Citric Acid for bathing purpose:- Use two teaspoons in 15 litres of water for bathing 60 pigeons. Citric acid lowers the hardness of water and cleans the dirt on the pigeon's body and feathers. After the bath, the pigeon feathers start shining and look clean and healthy.
NOTE:- Citric Acid is 100% safe and is edible.
After two days, allow the pigeons to bathe in water mixed with citric acid. Citric acid kills e.coli,salmonella and other bacteria which are generally found in the pigeon intestines. It creates acidic environment in the pigeons' gut, due to which the bacteria cannot survive.
Citric Acid does not exist in liquid form as the name suggests. It is white and crystalline and is used generally in pickles and cool drinks. It is called "Neembu sath" in urdu/hindi. Citric acid is inexpensive(cheap) and is easily available in provision stores.
Citric Acid for bathing purpose:- Use two teaspoons in 15 litres of water for bathing 60 pigeons. Citric acid lowers the hardness of water and cleans the dirt on the pigeon's body and feathers. After the bath, the pigeon feathers start shining and look clean and healthy.
NOTE:- Citric Acid is 100% safe and is edible.
- I suggest all pigeon lovers to keep these handy tools with you.
- These tools are very useful.
- They help you save pigeon’s lives and also help you to quickly clean the pens and the entire loft.
The Tools:-
1). Ink Filler- To give the liquid solution in very small quantities such as 1 to 4 drops or more if required.
2) Syringes- 2ml, 5ml, and 10 ml – To feed any liquids to the pigeons.
3) Injection Needles, to give shots to your pigeons
4) Sewing needle and thread to stitch the cut skin caused by falcon/hawk attacks (or) by any other animals.
5) Nose pliers for cleaning nails
6) Scissors to cut the feathers.
7) Scraper to clean the pens and the loft.
8) Small and big size broom for cleaning the pens and the loft.
9) Dustpan into which waste/dust can be swept and thrown easily into the garbage bin.
10) First Aid Box with medicines
11) Newspapers, as the flooring material for the pens.
12) Nail cutter to trim the upper beaks
13) Candle and a match box to correct the uneven lower beaks.
14) Waterers to prevent contamination of water and spreading of diseases.
15) Feeding trays to avoid wastage and contamination of feed(grains).
16) Woollen thread for tying the legs of the aggressive pigeon to stop fighting and to make them pair easily.
***Pairing Aggressive birds****
Sometimes when we pair new birds. They do not pair easily. Often, one of the birds is aggresive. So how do you pair them? It is very simple. Just tie the legs of the aggressive bird (like a handcuffed person). In 1 or 3 days or max in a week they stop fighting and start mating. This technique will save you a lot of time. Believe me !!!!
***Clean your pens easily***
Want to save time and make sure that your pens (made of wood) are clean and tidy? Then use fibre sheets as the floor of the pens. You can scrape the bird droppings very easily and your pens will look clean and tidy. Trust me !!!
***Make your birds defecate where you want them to ***
Everyday we let our breeding pairs out for feeding, but as soon as you leave them out what happens? They start defecating wherever they want to. So, how do you stop them from defecating everywhere? Use "Jhaap". "Jhaap" (in urdu)is a wired cage of height 2-1/2 feet and 3 feet x 3 feet (length and breadth)with a door on top having dimensions of 6 inch x 1 feet (length and breadth). It will be open from bottom (i.e., it will not have any floor).
In the evening, before you let your breeders out for feeding, put them in this wired cage. They will start defecating immediately inside this cage. Then just simply lift the cage to free them for feeding.
***Splayed legs in squabs/young birds***
To correct splayed legs in chicks. Tie both legs with a woollen thread(like a handcuffed person) in such a way that they can stand in a normal standing position. After some days, the splayed legs will get corrected and the pigeon will be able to walk properly. The splayed legs are due to deficiency of vitamins and minerals in the pigeon feed.
Treatment:- Give one cod liver capsule to the squabs every alternate day and multivitamins(viselam or vimeral) for 3 consecutive days every week and soaked green gram in the evening after feeding the grains without fail until they get well.
***Monsoon: The Danger ***
As the monsoon arrives, it also brings many diseases with it, mostly viral in nature. In the year 2008, I lost approximately 50 birds. And it was because of a deadly virus called Herpes virus(Avian Paramyxovirus type-1). It can look like Newcastle,Paratyphoid and Canker all rolled into one. It affects the digestive tract and nervous system of the pigeons.
One of the experienced fanciers,Jack Barkel, has given explanation regarding this disease. Mr. Barkel advises all the fanciers to use Virkon-S. It is a disinfectant and it kills most of the bacteria and viruses of the pigeons.
Its dosage is 5 gms in 10 litres of drinking water for three days, followed by flora treatment to replace the good germs in the tract. It is very inexpensive and it works. So don't waste time and try this disinfectant in your loft to get rid of the bacteria and viruses.
***Pedicure for pigeons ***
Sometimes pigeon droppings get attached to the toenails of pigeons and it becomes hard. And when you try to remove these hard droppings from the toenails, the nails come out and start bleeding. There is a simple way to clean the toenails. Use a noseplier. Gently press the bird droppings with the noseplier. Care should be taken while pressing with the noseplier, otherwise, if you press the noseplier very firmly then the pigeon might get hurt.
***Wired floors***
If your pigeons are getting weaker and sick very often, and dying, then its time for instrospection. We, as human beings, often think that we have taken all the best precautions to protect our pigeons and no disease can kill our pigeons,but still our pigeons get sick. Why? It is all because of the way we keep the pigeons in our lofts.
Most of the fanciers use sand as flooring material. If a fancier is using sand as flooring material then he is doing the "BIGGEST" mistake of his life as he is spreading PMV and Paratyphoid to the entire loft "unknowingly". How? You may argue? I will explain, and the reason is very simple.
When a pigeon gets infected with PMV and/or Paratyphoid, and such birds, when defecate, their droppings fall on the floor and gets mixed with the sand. And we all know that pigeons have the habit of eating sand, as they need calcium, and while doing so the healthy birds also get infected with the deadly PMV and/or Paratphoid disease thereby spreading the disease in the entire loft and these birds do the same thing to the other birds by repeating the same process. Many a times, fanciers say "I have lost some 50 or 100 birds at a time". It is due to the same reason. They should blame themselves for causing such a huge mortality in their lofts.
And to prevent this there is a solution and that is " Wired Floors". If wired floors are used a lot of pigeon diseases can be prevented and also the pigeons will remain free of worms, as the worm eggs are also ingested by them when they eat the sand. The wired floors should be 6 inches or more in height from the floor so that when the pigeons defecate, their droppings would pass through the wired mesh and fall on the floor. The pigeons cannot eat the contaminated feed fallen on the floor or sand as the wired mesh floor does not allow them to do so. This will help them to stay clean and healthy.
***Trimming pigeon beaks***
Sometimes the pigeon beaks grow abnormally. In such a case, you need to trim the extra beaks. Trimming the pigeon beaks is same like trimming our finger nails. Both are made up of similar material(keratin). Take a nailcutter and cut the extra beaks like we trim our nails, but be carefull while trimming the beak as there is a possibility of bleeding if you cut the beak too deep. Just like our nails have flesh underneath them, the pigeon beaks also have flesh underneath its beak. If you cut the beak very deep, there is a possibility that you might cut the flesh beneath its beak also and bleeding might start. So take care while trimming the beaks.
***Deworming***
Worms in the gut(intestines) of the pigeons makes the pigeons weak and reduce their performance. They absorb the nutrients from the food eaten by the pigeons. They are attached to the walls of the intestines. When they multiply in large numbers, they block the intestines preventing the movement of food inside the gut (intestines). Sometimes, the worms also come out of the vent along with the bird droppings.
Treatment: -Albomar (Albendazole) is the drug of choice to deworm the pigeons. It should be dissolved in water and given to all the pigeons except breeding pairs who are raising chicks. Mix 10 drops of Albomar solution to 1 litre drinking water. This diluted Albomar solution can be given to 15 birds. It should be given continuosly for three days. If you have more birds, then increase the dosage according to the ratio given above. If the worms are in large numbers, you will see many worms in the bird droppings on the first day when they defecate. The worms are expelled only after 24 hours through vent/anus when the birds defecate. Deworming is recommended every six months. Do not use sand/soil as the flooring material in the loft as the worm eggs are ingested by the pigeons which are present in the soil when they eat sand.
***Arrest Bleeding***
To arrest the bleeding, apply turmeric powder on the injured area. The bleeding will stop immediately.
***Paratyphoid***
Paratyphoid is caused by Salmonella bacteria. Rats and squirrels are the usual carriers of this bacteria. Wing paralysis, leg paralysis, twisting of necks are all various forms of paratyphoid disease. It is also characterized by swelling in the joints of the wings. Some illiterate fanciers say that it is caused by excessive heat of the sun or by air, which is NOT true. The medicine of choice for treating paratyphoid is Enrofloxacin 10% oral solution (sold under the names Enflocin / Enrocin/ Meriquin/QuinRocin in India and outside india under the name Baytril). This medicine is avaiable only in veterinary medical shops (or) in the shops that sell poultry medicines.
Enrofloxacin Dosage: 4 drops per pigeon a day in morning(on empty stomach) for 14 days and in the evening one cod-liver oil capsule to each pigeon, every two days for 14 days. Multivitamins(Viselam or Vimeral) should also be given every week for 3 consecutive days in the evening only. Keep the birds on small grains like finger millet(raagi), pearl millet(bajra), canary seeds(raala), and yellow mustard seeds(sarson or peeli rai) in equal proportions. After feeding these grains, soaked green gram or soaked chaney ki dal should be given to the birds without fail everyday until they get well.
NOTE: Please use a dropper/ink filler to administer Enrofloxacin oral solution. DO NOT USE SYRINGE TO ADMINISTER ENROFLOXACIN.
***PMV(New Castle Disease)***
This diseased is caused by virus called Paramyxovirus. The main symptoms of this disease are head/neck shaking (twisting of necks is not seen) and diarrhea. The loft has to be cleaned AND WASHED THOROUGHLY with a strong disinfectant like Virkon-S. The sick birds should be separated and fed separetly. SADLY THERE IS NO CURE FOR THIS DISEASE. ONLY PREVENTION BY VACCINATING THE HEALTHY BIRDS IS THE ONLY CURE.
THE SICK BIRDS SHOULDE BE GIVEN ONE COD-LIVER OIL TABLET EVERY ALTERNATE DAY UNTIL THEY GET WELL. Multivitamins(Viselam or Vimeral) should also be given every week for 3 consecutive days in the evening. Keep the birds on small grains like finger millet(raagi), pearl millet(bajra), canary seeds(raala), and yellow mustard seeds(sarson or peeli rai) in equal proportions. After feeding these grains, soaked green gram(hari moong) (or) soaked bengal gram(chaney ki dal) should be given to the birds without fail everyday until they get well.
Godwilling !!! some of the birds may recover and survive.
Care should be taken to ensure that the sick birds’ droppings do not get mixed with feed and water. This is very important. If you are using soil/sand for flooring, please remove the soil/sand immediately and wash the loft thoroughly with a disinfectant. Sick pigeons spread this disease to other healthy birds by defecating and when these bird droppings are ingested by the healthy birds (when they eat soil/grain mixed with the droppings) they too get infected !!!
PLEASE NOTE: VIRUS SURVIVES IN WATER. IF THE LOFT IS MOIST AND HAS STAGNATED WATER/RAIN WATER AROUND, THERE ARE HIGH CHANCES FOR THE PIGEONS TO GET INFECTED WITH VIRAL DISEASES. SO PLEASE KEEP YOUR LOFT DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY .....................
***Sour Crop (due to E.coli and Adenovirus)***
Sour crop is caused by increase in e.coli bacteria in the gut of pigeons. This is also called food poisoning(Zeherbad in urdu). Most of the fanciers think that this disease is due to poisoning of the food grains with pesticides, WHICH IS NOT TRUE. The pigeons do not eat and stand in a corner with their crops filled with stinking fluid and it looks like a hanging pouch. The e.coli infection, if not treated immediately, multiply in large numbers and cause adenovirus infection, and when adenovirus attacks your pigeons, the pigeons start vomiting and defecate with foul smelling slimy droppings.
For both (e.coli and adenovirus) symptoms use Neomycin sulphate and doxycycline powder (combination), which is sold under the name Neodox Forte in India.
Alternative medicine: You can also try N-Doxy medicine to treat this disease, if Neodox Forte is not available.
Treatment for the pigeons suffering from sour crop:-
1. Remove the stagnated fluid from crop by gently squeezing the crop with your fingers, with the pigeon facing in downward direction.
2. Next, give 1-2 gm of Neodox Forte powder to the infected pigeon dissolved in water with a syringe for 4 days. For flock treatment, you can dissolve this medicine in water and feed them according to the ratio given above. Better results are obtained if the dosage is increased depending upon the severity of the disease.
NOTE: In emergency, when Neodox Forte is unavailable, you can use baking soda to treat sour crop. Mix 2 gm of baking soda in 20 ml water and give it to the infected pigeon using a syringe.
***Streptococcosis(Swelling in toe joints)***
Often you might have seen swelling in middle toe joints of your pigeons. This is due to streptococcus infection, and the disease is called streptococcosis. Ampicillin/Tetracycline is the drug of choice for this disease. Enrofloxacin/Baytril is not effective in this disease and should not be used for treating this disease.
DOSAGE: 25 mg tetracycline/terramycin/subamycin/Ampicillin tablet/capsule powder for 5 days. It not cured, the medicine is to be continued for some days.
***Canker***
Canker is caused by Trichomanas bacteriae. The symptoms of this disease are whitish or yellowish white masses in the throats of the pigeons. Flagyl (metronidazole) is the drug of choice for treating this disease. Clean the throat with a pigeon feather and give Flagyl-25 mg (powdered) to the infected pigeon.
DOSAGE: 25 mg for 3 days depending on the degree of the illness. If it is a severe case, dosage is to be increased but it should not exceed 100 mg in any case.
***Eye Diseases***
For any eye disease, use Terramycin eye ointment or Ciprofloxacin eye ointment.
NOTE: I have come to know that some people open the Terramycin capsule and put the powder in the eyes pf the pigeons. YOU SHOULD NEVER PUT TERRAMYCIN CAPSULE POWDER IN THE EYES OF THE PIGEONS,THE PIGEONS WILL LOSE THEIR EYESIGHT PERMANENTLY. ONLY TERRAMYCIN EYE OINTMENT/CIPROFLOXACIN EYE OINTMENT SHOULD BE APPLIED TO THE EYES AND NOT TERRAMYCIN CAPSULE POWDER.
***Pigeon Pox***
Pigeon pox is caused by Pox virus. Mosquitoes are the usual carriers of this virus. Stagnant water is the breeding ground for mosquitoes and their larvae. Water should not be allowed to stagnate in and around the pigeon lofts. Variolinum is the drug of choice to treat this disease. Give Variolinum 30c, 2 drops to each chick. A single dose would suffice. If the infection is still persisting even after a week, then give Variolinum 200c. Burn the boils with an incense stick (Agarbathi) and apply turmeric. This will prevent the boils from growing in bigger size. Variolinum is a homeopathic drug and is available only in homeopathic medical shops.
***Muscle Wasting (Sookha)***
Muscle Wasting is characterized by loss of muscle(flesh) around the keel bone. Muscle Wasting generally occurs when the pigeons are not provided adequate WATER TWO TIMES A DAY.
Treatment: -Mix mashed raisins (kishmish) and finely ground sesame seeds(til) in the ratio of 2:1 and make small tablets(about the size of a peanut) using honey. Give three tablets to each pigeon in the morning and evening followed by multivitamins and water immediately. The pigeons should not be forcibly fed grains until they start feeding themselves !!!
***Coccidiosis***
Coccidiosis is characterized by loss of eye color, paleness of the inside of the mouth, sometimes blood in the droppings, "seed" near the anus/vent, which does not allow the birds to defecate properly due to which they appear uncomfortable while defecating and rapid loss of weight . The "seed" can be gently squeezed out using your fingers when it gets fully grown. If the seed is in initial/early stages " PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE SEED". The loss of muscle around the keel bone(SEENEY KI HADDI) is also seen. The pigeon fanciers generally mistake it for muscle wasting disease. This disease is caused by the Eimeria bacteriae.
Treatment:- Amprolium Hydrochloride is the drug of choice to treat this disease. It is sold under the names Amprolium/Amprol/Corid. In India, this medicine is sold under the name Coximar. Vencocci and Kampro-H are the other medicines used for treating this disease.
NOTE: If you do not find this medicine, ask the chemist to give any poultry medicine for Coccidiosis disease.
***Mycoplasmosis***
Mycoplasmosis is characterized by phlegm in the mouth, nasal discharge, difficulty in breathing, watery eyes and sometimes cough. It is caused by Mycoplasma bacteria and hence the name Mycoplasmosis. This is an infectious disease. The transmission takes place generally through faeces, infected feed and drinking water.
Treatment:- Tetracycline is the drug of choice to treat this disease. It is generally sold under the names Subamycin tablet/Terramycin capsule. The infected bird should be treated with 25 mg subamycin tablet/terramycin capsule for three days in the morning. After these three days, birds should be given probiotics(curd or yoghurt) to replace the beneficial bacteria in the gut. Multivitamins should also be administered to the birds for three consecutive days following the administration of probiotics.
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